Fundamentals of two-fluid dynamics, Lublicated transport, by D.D.Joseph

By D.D.Joseph

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When I am throwing Spooks or other heavier or larger lures, I switch over to a baitcaster with a 6'6" or 7' rod with a medium heavy to heavy action. When I am throwing topwater lures in tight areas, with very specific targets, where there is no room for error, I will downsize to a 6' casting rod. This length is much more accurate than longer rods and easier to control when working an area with stumps and brush, where one bad cast will tangle your lure up and waste your precious fishing time. Although most of my really big bass have come from shallow water, they were always in a place that was near deep water, where one or more grasses came together, and near the main creek channel or water inlet.

I just cast it to the structure, let it sit, twitch it a few times, and they usually just suck it in. Page 33 of 39 Bass Fishing Secrets! To walk-the-dog, you simply snap your rod in a downward motion over and over again throughout the entire retrieve. This will force the lure to zig-zag back and forth from left to right. This action drives bass crazy as they think an injured baitfish is trying to get away. When I am throwing a lighter weight popper or surface walker, I tend to use spinning gear on a 6 ½ to 7 ' rod with a medium action.

The popper is one of my favorite baits to use in places that have a lot of grass or milfoil that is holding bass. When you retrieve a popper, it requires a fast jerk, which spits water out from the front of the cup-lipped bait, and the bait makes a deep pop or bullfrog sound. You then should let the lure sit for a few moments and repeat this process again. I will never forget, when I was 11 years old I caught my first largemouth bass over 5lbs on a clear popper with a white bucktail. The lure was a Pico Lil' Pop and what a thrill that was!

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