Manual For Bicycle Framebuilders by Tim Paterek

By Tim Paterek

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STANDARD-CONCAVE A large majority of the frames on the market use this style. It is relatively easy and inexpensive to io. It can be done by two methods: 1 - Fitting a piece of 1" diameter tubing into the top of the stays and trimming off the excess. ) 2 - Insert prefabricated slugs into the tops of the stays. 61: standard - concave 2-24 STANDARD-FLAT This method is also used a lot in the industry. It is also easy and inexpensive to do. Two methods can also be done to accomplish this style: 1 - Silver brazing a flat plate onto the top of the stay and cleaning off the excess.

It is simple and easy to install. Since there is no outlet for air expansion in this type of bridge, air expansion holes must be drilled in the bridge itself or in the stays. STANDARD-THREADED Using a water bottle fitting in the back of the bridge for mounting fenders is a nice touch for touring frames. The threaded fitting also serves as a built-in air expansion hole. Drill a second vent hole in the front of the bridge. D. material can be used to make a smaller diameter bridge. 250 2-17 strength back.

00. HENRY JAMES These are some of the nicest crowns on the market. They have hidden air expansion holes and built in fork tangs. Sometimes the seams are rather rough in the casting and require a little extra clean up. They are out of chrome—cooly and are difficult to cold set after the fork is built. They also have a special dimple cast into the crown which automatically locates the drill bit when drilling the brake hole. These are about the thickest crowns on the market so if using one make sure the thickness is accounted for in the working drawing.

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